Pyramids and Camels, Oh My

Time to share another travel adventure — one nearly as unique as my trips to Africa. Traveling with my sister and, again, with our favorite travel company, Wilderness Travel, we signed up for a trip to Egypt. We traveled during a period of heightened alert, which required us to be escorted by government-assigned armed guards throughout the country. The hotels we stayed at had strict security.

First stop Cairo, a sprawling city of 8 million people. It has all the problems of any big city, but with bizarre twists. Honking taxis, beaten-up buses, and dented dusty cars vie for road space with camels and donkeys hauling carts full of oranges, cabbages, and mounds of bright green alfalfa. All the frantic activity moves through a dusty haze that never quite goes away, adding to the exotic, rosy, golden light that bathes the city. Traffic is constant, and the nonstop honking is interrupted only by the haunting call to prayer five times a day. After this vibrant first impression, we checked into our hotel, eager to see more.

Our first hotel, the Marriott Mena House, has an amazing location — right near Egypt's most famous landmark — the Giza pyramid complex. After settling into our modest rooms, we took time to look out the window. It was truly an “aha” moment: there, just beyond, were the pyramids of fame, which we would explore in the coming days. There are no words to describe the Gaza pyramids; their sheer size diminishes all around them. Of course, we had to climb aboard two very large camels and snap the classic photo. Before leaving Giza, we visited the Great Sphinx, a huge limestone statue with a lion’s body and a human face.

A trip to a country with 5,000 years of history is a challenge in itself, especially when trying to comprehend the many layers that have brought it into the 21st century. The startling reality is that, in today's Egypt, most people live the way they have not just for hundreds, but for thousands of years. Their lives depend on the Nile and the abundance of crops its rich valley produces each year.

Muslim influence is seen in Egyptian dress — women in scarves, men in galabiyas, and modesty prevailing. Uniformed, armed police officers are a constant presence. At every step of our travels, our group of nine Americans always traveled with an armed guard. They were different each day, never smiled or tried to converse. All sites visited had their own armed guards.

After leaving Cairo for Luxor and Aswan, we were reminded that Egypt is defined by the Nile River. We spent days cruising its fertile valley. Among the highlights were the Valley of the Kings, Karnak, Abu Simbel, and Aswan.

Despite the poverty and filth on all public thoroughfares, there is little begging. Instead, everyone seems to sell some sort of curio, from scarves to spices. Tips are expected everywhere. From antiquity guards to bathroom attendants, hands are out for Egyptian pounds. Our guides handed out tip money each morning for us to use during the day.

We ate strange and unfamiliar foods. The food was simple and fresh. We didn’t see any obesity in Egypt. We enjoyed delicious hummus and sauce mixtures with fresh vegetables. The national beer, Stella, proved a refreshing treat after dusty visits to 2,000- to 3,000-year-old temples and tombs. Water, however, was a no-no unless one wanted to experience “mummy tummy,” a frequent complaint among Egyptian tourists.

One day, we sailed in one of the elegant, gull-like feluccas that flit across the Nile at busy ports. With enthusiasm, I joined the spirited bargaining at the famous bazaars, where purveyors competed for my attention and Egyptian pounds. While visiting a small village, we had an opportunity to get a henna tattoo. The cleverly applied designs lasted several weeks.

After a dizzying two weeks with stops in Cairo, Memphis, Luxor, Aswan, and Alexandria, we arrived at Cairo airport more than ready to return home. This adventure was humbling in many ways. Standing in front of the mighty pillars at Karnak and the giant figures at Abu Simbel, riding a camel, and cruising down the Nile were all amazing experiences. I will never forget the people I met and their difficult lives, or the sense that there is little promise of great change. Landing at Dulles Airport and walking through the gates was especially sweet this time around.