Memories of a bucket list trip

Anyone who travels will tell you that part of the fun is the planning and anticipation. My sister — and travel buddy — and I are heading off on a travel adventure in May. We’ve signed up for a tour of national parks in the Southwest that we have never visited, ending at the Grand Canyon — one of our favorite places.

The 10-day tour, called Spirit of the Desert, visits six Southwest parks. It includes historic in-park lodgings, flightseeing over Capitol Reef and the Grand Canyon, and even a Colorado River float trip.

Returning to the Grand Canyon has sent me wandering down memory lane — to a trip that sits on many bucket lists: hiking from the canyon’s South Rim to the bottom and staying overnight at Phantom Ranch.

On the occasion of my 50th birthday, I talked three friends into joining me for this true bucket-list adventure. We all agreed to train for what would be a challenging hike. We met in Las Vegas and drove to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, where we stayed at the El Tovar Hotel. Built in 1905, the historic hotel sits right on the rim — exactly where we would begin our hike.

The morning of the hike, we were up early, loaded up our backpacks, and grabbed our walking sticks. We started down the Bright Angel Trail, a 9.5-mile route that would take us to Phantom Ranch for our overnight stay. It was cool at the top, so we bundled up, knowing full well it would grow warmer with every step down.

The trail quickly drops away into a series of tight switchbacks. We stopped often to drink water — drink often is the number one rule of the trail. With each pause came a completely different perspective. We passed people, and people passed us, all making their way down into the canyon. We knew the hike would be challenging — and it was. But we had also been warned: the climb back up would be far harder. The Park Service says it best: “Down is optional. Up is mandatory.” As we neared the bottom, the landscape shifted to a harsher, desert-like terrain. We heard the Colorado River before we saw it.

Finally, at the bottom, we crossed a suspension bridge and caught sight of the campground, shaded by tall cottonwood trees. Phantom Ranch is a small cluster of rustic stone and wood cabins and a canteen tucked along Bright Angel Creek. We quickly pulled off our dusty boots and soaked our aching feet in the cool water.

Everything is family-style. Like any camping trip, the food tastes even better when you’ve earned it. We slept in bunk beds — not my first choice — but it didn’t matter. My fatigue was so complete that I slept like a log.

After a good night’s rest — and perhaps the most welcome cup of coffee I’ve ever had — we set out on the day’s challenge: climbing from the bottom of the canyon back to the top, a 4,500- to 4,800-foot elevation gain. Slow and steady became our mantra, along with constant hydration. Reaching the top was unforgettable. We felt humbled and grateful for the experience we had shared.

Fast forward to today — my sister and I will soon be traveling through some of the Southwest’s most memorable national parks, ending once again at the Grand Canyon. We’ll take in the views, enjoy the journey, and, no doubt, find ourselves remembering our earlier adventures so many years ago.