Off the Porch

Cornwall — A magical place

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One of many memorable walking vacations with my sister took us to England, first to the Cotswolds for a week of gentle walking, then a more challenging week in Cornwall. In our second week, we joined nine other walkers on a guided trip along Cornwall's dramatic cliffs.

Cornwall is a peninsula in southwestern England, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west and the English Channel to the south. It reaches out toward the southwestern tip of Britain, surprisingly close to Brittany in France. Our timing seemed perfect. Wildflowers abounded, blanketing the craggy cliffs we explored. There were challenging ups and downs, but every climb was worth the effort, with a rewarding view at the top. There is a south coast and a north coast. The south coast is tropical — with wonderful flowers and even palm trees. The north is more rugged and challenging.

We traveled along some of the most spectacular sections of the Cornish Coastal Path with overnights in some of Cornwall’s loveliest coastal villages and ports, including Padstow, Fowey and St. Ives. Each morning, after a traditional English breakfast, we would leave for the day’s adventure, often from the hotel's front door. Views of isolated beaches and flowers of every description greeted us as we made our way up and down and around each breathtaking turn along the coastal trails.

We always had to be prepared for weather that could change quickly. Each of us came equipped with waterproof boots, rain pants, a waterproof jacket, a cover for our packs, and most importantly, a positive attitude! Yes, we had our rain walks, but the rain was gentle and the temperature not too cold. When the weather changed, we would stop and out would come our various layers to protect us from the approaching weather. We all knew rewards would await us at the end of our damp trail walk — it might be a cold ale or a hot cocoa.

How could Cornwall be anything but magical when you consider it is the place of legendary tales of kings, princes, smugglers and pirates? It has attracted great writers whose stories unfold in Cornwall. Think Winston Graham's “Poldark” series and Daphne DuMaurier's haunting novels.

One memorable day we arrived at Tintagel, according to legend, the home of King Arthur. The weather-battered headland was always an important fortified location. According to legend, King Arthur was conceived there as a result of Merlin's trickery. Some scholars believe Tintagel was Camelot. It was one of those amazing places where you could almost feel the history buried in the ruins all around.

Each of our trips seems to offer a surprise bonus experience. This trip, it was attending a performance at the Minack Theatre. Literally carved out of rock, the dramatic open-air theater offered an amazing evening experience. Bundled up, we were treated to a performance of “The Vicar of Dibley,” a well-known popular British TV series. The comedy had us all laughing as we were entertained in a most unique theater setting — with the actors on stage below us and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.

We loved the mix of breathtaking walks, fascinating history, and unexpected experiences. Though the years have passed since our walking trips, we still share the memories and enjoy our hometown walks. Me on the beaches of Amelia Island and my sister in coastal Maine.


Dickie Anderson can be reached at dickie.anderson@gmail.com

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